- The design I'm going to use for the control panel
- (its changed since I started. Rounded front edge now.
lets see if the cab looks the same!)
I Finally got a start on the control panel, yanked out the
tablesaw and started dicing up the mdf. Of course, I gave kiddo
(my 6 year old) the nice cushy job of taking pictures. Well,
lets just say there are a lot of feet, fingers, flowers, rocks,
and pictures of other things, but no cutting pics. Pretty basic
at that point, cut mdf on saw, apply glue to all joining edges,
air nail into place.
Heres the base, all built up, everything worked out great! a
couple of the angles were a bit difficult to cut on the tablesaw,
but some creative thinking, and a couple of shims helped out.
The CP Top, and the custom trackball mount getting lined
up and marked for routing and drilling.
Closeup of the trackball mounting plate. fits perfect!
Heres a note, when cutting 1/4" aluminum plate with a
flycutter..... Make sure the flycutter is VERY
tight..... No deaths, but it scared the crap out of me!
Paper templates marked up and placed on the cp to check
the layout. The templates were 1:1 scale, and measured
out dead on, so I just pasted them in place and used
them to mark the centers with a small drill bit before
moving up to the hole saw.
Here you can see the trackball template moved back. I
drilled all the mounting holes, marked the TB cutout
with a hole at each of the corners, and marked the
outter limits of the mounting plate.
(need to get a new router bit...) forgot to take some
pics during, but after clamping 4 straight edges to the
CP, the distance from the bit to the edge of my router
base around the mounting panels perimeter, (does that
make sense?) I had a nice guide for the router. I slowly
stepped it down, and routed out all the MDF down to the
thickness of the mounting plate. I left the middle as
you can see as its going to be removed anyway.
On the other side, you can see my pilot hole for the
jigsaw, and the corner holes for the cutout area served
for me to draw a line of where to cut.
Again I forgot to take some pics, but basically, get a
29mm hole saw (1 1/8") and using the pilot holes as a
template cut out your button holes. Only cut half way
through on the top for all the holes, them flip it over
and cut through from the back. This will keep the board
from "Breaking out" and leave a nice finished hole. For
the joystick mounts, I used a 1" forstner bit and cut in
about 1/8", then drilled the hole the rest of the way
with a drill bit the same size as my 10-24 tee-nuts. I
hammered them in and secured them with epoxy. I don't
trust tee-nuts to to come free later on as its happened
to me tooo many times.....
Piano hinge mounted to the front edge of the bottom...
All set in place, fits perfect! Now I
just need to get it finished!
Decided to not go with a big radius edge and just threw
a french curve on it. Still looks great! (and cut the
holes I forgot before)
the parts up on some wood and primed away! (Canadian
Beer has oooohhhh so many good uses...)
Now while I wait for the paint to dry, its off
to fix up the site (what I'm doing now) and to wire up the
joysticks. NOTE!!! When using beer cases for stands, If you want
a beer AFTER you finish painting... TAKE IT OUT BEFORE YOU
PAINT! (I learned the hard way)